It’s no secret: Harvard Square has a lot of Mexican eateries. From late-night classics like El Jefe’s and Felipe’s to the more recently opened Achilito’s, satisfying that craving is easy. Yet in a market oversaturated with established competitors, Tenoch Mexican’s newest location on Mount Auburn Street (right where Jefe’s was two years ago) seeks to capture your attention—and it’s making a strong case.
Tenoch includes the staples expected of any Mexican restaurant—burritos as large as your Owala water bottle, bowls the same diameter as a fútbol, and tacos with a traditional soft shell. But what sets Tenoch apart from the competition are the tortas. A torta is basically a Mexican sandwich: sliced tomatoes, peppers, avocados, and fried eggs combined with melted cheese and meat, all tucked between bolillo. Tenoch’s tortas are truly incredible, and diners are given numerous choices. With nine different types of meats and even a vegetarian option, there is something for everyone.
This variety is not just limited to just the tortas. Have a beef-tongue burro. Perhaps try the chorizo quesadilla. Or, you might enjoy the vegetarian tacos. There are so many choices that it becomes difficult to know what to order. The staff recommended the Torta Tenoch, and I can confidently say that you will not be disappointed. Furthermore, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the vegetarian options. Not only was my vegetarian taco filled to the brim, but the flavor and sauces were also fantastic—spicy and savory, paired with the crunch of the peppers and sauce seeping into the tortilla. While there are no halal options, the vegetarian options are still worth your time. The only downside is the current absence of dessert options; while other Mexican restaurants in the Square offer churros or flan, Tenoch lacks these dishes of the sweeter variety.
Of course, the food quality is important, but as college students, price matters too. Relative to the sheer amount per serving, the prices at Tenoch are a bargain. One torta will run you about $11, but the sandwich is about twice as large as a McDonald’s burger. The tacos cost $4 a piece, but they’re stuffed to the point that it might be easier to just use a fork and knife. While the price is comparable to its competitors, Tenoch’s portions are much better.
Tenoch’s newest location opened at the end of September on Mount Auburn Street. Originally a food truck, Tenoch has expanded with six restaurants spread across Greater Boston. Not far from Winthrop Park, the Harvard Square location is perfectly secluded from the hustle and bustle of JFK Street while still providing a great view for all the people-watchers. The outdoor seating offers a great way to enjoy these last few days of autumn.
Walking into Tenoch, I was surprised by the interior. A bright, neon “Tenoch Mexican” sign combined with white tile walling and numerous yellow barstools reminded me of a 60s diner one might simply go to pass the time. With Latin pop flowing throughout the restaurant and a nice, open floor plan, it is easy to see Tenoch as a central hub for students to decompress with friends after a long week. The hours promote this ideal as well: Tenoch is open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.
The service is impressively quick. You can order online, at the counter, or with the digital display, making it easy to avoid any potential backlog. The cooks move with great precision and efficiency. Everything is made fresh in front of your eyes, so it was especially impressive watching one cook stuff a tortilla with seemingly every ingredient and still proceed to wrap it within a minute.
At an institution like Harvard that has been around for centuries, it’s easy to trust the established traditions and places. That is not to say that those long-standing restaurants are bad—they are popular for a reason. But spots like Tenoch, despite their proximity, and quality, often go overlooked. With great prices and, more importantly, a great variety of food, Tenoch is truly unique. But it is still new. It could be a bustling locale that students flock to, but even on Friday nights, the place is sparse, with only a handful of customers. And that’s a shame for those who haven’t yet ventured from the usual. Tenoch proves that maybe we shouldn’t just adhere to tradition, and instead, try something new.
Tyler Dang ’28 (tylerdang@college.harvard.edu) recommends the Torta Choriqueso.