A Day in Salem

Few places capture the spirit of Halloween quite like Salem, Massachusetts. Just 16 miles north of Boston, this historic seaside city draws crowds for its haunted history, witchy charm, and autumn atmosphere. Earlier this October, my friends and I decided to make the trip ourselves—a quick getaway from campus to explore the cobblestone streets and see if Salem lived up to its reputation. 

The town, with its abundance of ghost tours and pumpkin-lined streets, has a haunted energy that comes from the darker history that gave the city its fame. Starting in 1692, hysteria swept through the Puritan communities of Salem Village (present-day Danvers) after several young girls claimed to be bewitched. The chaos spread to Salem Town (present-day Salem), where the legal proceedings—the Salem Witch Trials—took place. Bridget Bishop, the first person convicted, is believed to have been hanged on Gallows Hill, which now stands as a museum and theatre.

Alongside Gallows Hill, the Witch House also serves as a reminder of what happened in 1692. As one of Salem’s most famous attractions, the house is the only remaining structure directly tied to the trials. Once home to Judge Jonathan Corwin, who presided over the trials, the house offers visitors a rare glimpse into 17th-century Salem. While I only stopped by at the end of my Salem visit to admire the exterior, tours of the interior are also available for $15. Tickets become available daily at 8 a.m., and during busier times of the year, they can sell out quickly, so it’s wise to plan ahead.

In fact, having a plan is helpful for most activities in Salem. A lot of the tours and museums require tickets, and some sell out early, so plan ahead. The town plays into this history, with witch-themed activities and shops. The most popular tours of Salem are the History and Hauntings of Salem Guided Walking Tour, Salem’s Best Ghost Tour, and the Bewitched Walking Tour of Salem. These tours are a great way to learn about Salem’s history, especially in places that don’t have plaques or clear historical markers. If you’d rather save some money but still want to see as much of the town as possible, Bluebikes are a convenient and affordable option, available for $2.95 per 30 minutes or $10 for 24 hour access. 

My friends and I, however, decided to explore Salem on our own instead of joining any of the guided tours. We spent the afternoon strolling along Essex Street, the heart of downtown Salem. The pedestrian mall is lined with witch-themed shops, such as The Coven’s Cottage, countless bookstores, and souvenir stands that cater to both history buffs and Halloween enthusiasts. Despite the slight drizzle, the street was packed with visitors browsing crystal displays, handmade candles, and racks of costumes.

One of our favorite stops was ASCEND, a crystal and jewelry shop that instantly caught our attention. Even though I’m not particularly into crystals, I ended up buying a gold bracelet with two red stones and I’ve worn it almost every day since. Every shelf in the store is filled with gems, stones, and creative pieces of jewelry that add to the mystical appeal. Toward the back, there’s a small section for psychic appointments and tarot card readings. If you’re hoping to get a reading, book ahead—walk-ins often face long waits, especially in October.

We then stopped by Kakawa Chocolate House for hot chocolate and truffles, a perfect warm-up after walking in the rain. For coffee, Odd Meter Coffee Co. was one of our first stops; I ordered the Witch’s Wand latte, which felt appropriately on theme for the day. Harry Potter fans should also visit Wynott’s Wands, a whimsical shop filled with handcrafted wands and magical decor. If you’re looking for a gift for someone who enjoys weaving, knitting, or any other fiber arts, Circle of Stitches is the place to go. Lined with fabrics, yarn, and handmade goods, it was an exciting stop for my roommate, who loves sewing. 

If we’d had more time, The House of the Seven Gables would be our next stop, Built in 1668 by merchant and shipowner John Turner, the house was designated a National Historic Landmark in 2007, inspiring Nathaniel Hawthorne’s novel of the same name, and offering an in-depth look at Salem’s colonial past.

Before leaving, we took a walk down to Salem Harbor, which was absolutely worth it. Located on Massachusetts Bay, the harbor offers a stunning view of the ships and sea. Beyond its witch-trial legacy, Salem has deep maritime roots and is home to the Salem Maritime National Historic Site. The park is currently restoring the Friendship of Salem, a replica of an 18th-century merchant ship that once represented the city’s global trading power.

Of course, before we could start exploring, we had to figure out the best way to get there, because like most Harvard students, none of us had a car. Luckily, getting to Salem without one is still simple and affordable. 

For Harvard students eager to escape campus and soak in the Halloween-like atmosphere, traveling to Salem is easiest through public transportation or car rental. My friends and I took the Newburyport/Rockport Commuter Rail when we visited Salem earlier this October, which cost $10 roundtrip and left from North Station every half hour to hour. We took the Red Line from Harvard Square to Park Street and then the Green Line from Park Street to North Station. Roundtrip, it took us a little under an hour, but two of my blockmates managed to do it in just under 40 minutes, so it is possible to get lucky with the timing!

I recommend looking at the schedule for the commuter rail and planning out what time you want to be at each stop. Because there are often long waits between commuter rail trains, it is good to have a general idea of when the Newburyport/Rockport train will be arriving, otherwise you could be stuck at North Station for almost an hour. 

While renting a Zipcar to drive is another option, keep in mind that parking is complicated and expensive in Salem around Halloween. It would take about an hour and 15 minutes by car, and there is also a ferry that runs from Boston to Salem for the price of $53 round trip or $33 one way, taking about 50 minutes. 

For Harvard students looking for a quick, affordable fall getaway, Salem checks every box: it’s close, walkable, and packed with history and charm. Whether you plan to take a guided ghost tour, wander through the witchy shops on Essex Street, or simply enjoy a cup of hot chocolate while people-watching downtown, Salem has something for everyone to enjoy during the spooky season.

Making the trip to Salem with my friends was a well-needed break from the Harvard bubble, and it reminded me how refreshing it can be to explore outside of Boston. So, if you can find the time, hop on the train to Salem with your friends and see for yourself why the fabled town is worth the trip.

Olivia Lunseth ’28 (olivialunseth@college.harvard.edu) writes Arts for the Independent.