You Said They’re How Much?

In October 2016, about 700 Harvard University Dining Hall Services members began striking for fair wages and adequate health insurance—a dissent that has persisted even a decade later. Harvard is no stranger to the divide between workers and administration. Earlier this year, faculty layoffs and department funding cuts exacerbated existing tensions between staff and the bureaucracy. Yet, without improving blue-collar worker conditions that ensure the University’s continued operation, the Harvard COOP announced a luxury brand deal with Golden Goose and FiveFourFive.

Though the COOP is a private entity, its “community-first” agenda nonetheless echoes campus and affiliate sentiment. This partnership, announced amid administrative turmoil, seems to contradict the company’s “every man” agenda. Moreover, campus affiliates ask whether the Harvard name should be associated with such an expensive price point while those who ensure its functionality remain in the fiscal margins.

“A little bit alienated” is how Kathleen Self ’30 felt upon hearing of the collaboration. “The shoes are very cute—I see people wearing them, and I do like them, but how many Harvard students can reasonably justify dropping $500-$1000 on a pair of sneakers? Not me!”

If not everyone can reasonably purchase these items with Harvard branding, then the community it fosters is simply divided. “It’s looking like they are prioritizing—maybe not money, but prioritizing this look about Harvard, rather than focusing on what’s actually going on within Harvard,” Self added.

In the past year, Harvard has been repeatedly challenged to uphold quality social and educational life for students, faculty, and staff alike—union protests during Visitas brought this dilemma into the national spotlight. Regardless of campus affiliation, priorities for those who use the University name should not be which shoe material best showcases the Ivy League aesthetic, but ensuring everyone on this campus feels supported and has a sense of belonging.

For some, this collaboration should not invite disdain for the shoe brand itself. Duaa Hassan ’30 cites Golden Goose as her everyday footwear. For such luxury consumers, the product is not problematic because of the brand, but rather because of its message. “This may definitely be a slap in the face for the HUDS workers who are currently struggling,” Hassan reasons. “I think it’s important to recognize both the negative social implications of this collaboration while also recognizing the COOP as a business that is independent.”

Hassan offers an important consideration. The COOP indeed operates through profit and consumer demands. However, can Harvard ethically separate its name from the business?

I would argue no.

Harvard is a massively influential institution with measurable economic, political, and global impacts. In its mission, the College makes it clear that they hope to accommodate a variety of socioeconomic backgrounds. As a student from Kentucky, I see this mission expanding year by year to include more students from backgrounds that traditionally would not be accommodated in the admissions process. To cultivate success across demographics, Harvard provides tools to help all incoming students acclimate to a rigorous college environment. For example, the First-Year Retreat and Experience pre-orientation program offers financial planning resources and encourages connections with like-minded peers.

But with such initiatives across social and academic spaces, it becomes difficult for Harvard to separate its name from student inclusivity, which exacerbates the stark contrast with luxury brand partnerships.

This is not to say I cannot recognize the opportunity this partnership brings to campus. Creative expression is essential for the Harvard student body; collaborating with major brands can inspire Crimson pride. And is it fair to burden something likely intended as a positive opportunity with the University’s burdens?

“I think it would be unfair to criticize this collaboration since the board of the COOP doesn’t influence HUDS pay,” Hassan said.

Again, I think there are critical, longstanding impacts to consider.

As Harvard affiliates, we encounter unhoused individuals even just outside of the COOP, and a variety of socioeconomic statuses are present throughout campus. Additionally, the College details that 55% of undergraduates receive need-based scholarships. With an ever-increasing number of students on financial aid, Harvard should balance what its name is associated with, even if partnering businesses are not the root of wage disparities.

“Why is that what we’re putting our energy and money and time towards whenever there are issues among our workers?” Self-expressed. The social implications of this type of collaboration, while not necessarily the COOP’s concern, should be considered more broadly in the future, as these collaborations reflect primarily on the Harvard administration.

What started as a small institution for select scholars to learn the core principles of life should not be reduced to a luxury price tag that can be bought and marketed. Instead, we should wear the iconic “H” with pride, knowing our institution fights for its workers and all students, regardless of socioeconomic standing. As Self says, “HUDS is affecting me every day, three times a day…We need to take care of the people who are taking care of us every day, before we take care of our public image to the small amount of students and people who can afford that brand.”

Abby Ladwig ’30 (abbyladwig@college.harvard.edu) hopes to pet more dogs this week.